Deep Fishing (part 2)
In the first part of deep fishing we discussed the seasonal locations that will hold deep bass. In this article I will cover the most important aspect of deep fishing, electronics. It is important to note that choosing the right graph and knowing how to properly set –up and adjust your graph is vital to your success as a deep angler. In this article I will get into the general information about all graphs and set up information that is specific to Lowrance electronics, keep in mind that other graphs will work for deep fishing applications and while the specific settings I will give you are for Lowrance they can be duplicated on other units.
Choosing the Right Graph:
There are several important factors that go into the purchase of a graph for deep fishing; pixel count, peak to peak power, screen size, etc… the following are critical:
Pixel Count: Basically this is the number of squares that make up the picture you see on the graph, the higher the count the greater the detail. For deep fishing I recommend a graph with a minimum of 320v x 480h pixel count, this graph will show you the detail you need.
Cone Angle: Measured in degrees this will give an idea how wide of an area you are viewing on the bottom. Anything over 15 degrees is sufficient.
Peak to Peak: This is the amount of watts the graph will put out; it is the total amount of AC current output from the graph’s peak positive value to its peak negative value. A peak to peak value of 3000 watts or greater is ideal.
Screen size: I prefer a 7” diagonal or larger screen, it is much easier to see the detail.
Greyline: This is a Lowrance term, simply put it shows items of differing densities with differing shades grey being the stronger signal (i.e. a rock bottom more grey than a mud bottom, or a fish laying on the bottom)
Zoom: Gotta Have It! I prefer a 2x & 4x zoom it allows you to look closer at your bait, the structure or the fish without having to adjust the upper and lower limits of your view.
Transducer Frequency: The higher the frequency the more detail. A 200kHz or higher is ideal.
Transducer Type: A skimmer transducer is preferred; it stands off of your trolling motor a little further than a pod style which seems to help limit trolling motor inference.
Most of these features will be listed when you are looking at graphs. If you are unsure ask for help or go to the manufactures website for assistance. Many websites have a tutorial as well that can help you set up and understand your graph. As to specific graphs that will work, here is a short list:
Lowrance: Any of the LCX series starting at the LCX – 15 X125 – X136df (monochrome) X102c & X107Cdf (color)
Garmin: 250 & 250C lower pixel count but will work 320C
Vexilar: The Edge 507 lower pixel count but will work
Bottom Line: 320 Max, 480 Max, Tournament 5100 & NCC6300
Hummingbird Matrix 37 or higher 565
Pinpoint: 7520 lower pixel count but will work
I am not endorsing any of these products. I have not used most of these but they all meet the basic criteria for deep fishing. I use and have been very happy with Lowrance products. The specifics of set up and adjustment detailed in this article are for Lowrance products as well.
Setting Up Your Graph:
Out of the box most graphs will perform well, there is a little bit of fine tuning we need to do to dial it in for deep fishing though. First thing, take the graph off of auto mode; you want to be able to control the graph. If the graph has a fish i.d. mode shut it off as well, if you are looking at cartoon fish on the screen everything except the bottom will show up as a fish. Next, let’s get into the menu of the graph and do some fine tuning:
Sensitivity: As high as you can set it without trolling motor interference, usually around 90%. You will need to adjust it as change depths and as conditions dictate so be familiar how to adjust it. Ping Speed: Crank it up all the way, this controls the number of times the transducer bounces, pings, a signal. More Pings = More Detail!
Chart Speed: Again, crank it up. You want returns as fast as they can be read by the graph.
Greyline: You want to be able to distinguish fish and bait on the bottom from the bottom. A group of fish or bait on the bottom will show as a line with very little or any grey between it and a line and a lot of grey. Set your greyline between 65% - 75%.
Surface Clutter: This is really an on the water adjustment. With increased air bubbles from wind, boat traffic and algae blooms this will need to be adjusted to remove some of the “noise” that appears at the top of the water column. Set it at low as a starting point and adjust it from there.
Upper & Lower Limit: This is an optional adjustment and it is an adjustment you will need to make throughout the day if you change depths allot. But by adjusting it, you will be able too get greater detail of a smaller section of the water column. Simply enter in the upper limit and lower limit in the boxes provided.
Spit Screen Zoom: Another optional adjustment, this allows you to view a zoomed image at the same time you are looking at the full image.
A side note, if at anytime you “mess up” the settings on your graph, most graphs have a “return to factory presets” option in their menu so you can always go back to where you started.
On the Water Adjustments:
O.K., we’ve got a base line set up and now we need to see how it will perform. Move out into 50’ – 90’ of water and drop the trolling motor. Turn on your graph and start to look at the images, kick on your trolling motor and see if you are getting any interference, if yes, lower the sensitivity if no raise it until you get interference and then back it off. If you are noticing allot of clutter in the top 10’ or so increase the surface the surface clutter setting to medium or even high. Note: this will limit what you see in that top 10’ so if you move into shallow water or start fishing in that top ten feet you will need to adjust it. Now adjust the upper and lower limits and notice how you can bring in more detail by eliminating water that you are not fishing, and can get even greater detail by 2x and 4x zooming in the images. This is a good time to drop a lure over the side and follow it on your graph, if you are having a hard time following it or if it disappears off the graph practice keeping it in the cone with your trolling motor. Remember if you make a mistake you can always return to the factory presets so don’t be afraid to experiment and see how the different buttons and menus work.
What Are You Looking At?
Experienced or not, the images that you see on your graph can be a bit confusing. Nothing will take the place of time on the water when it comes to becoming familiar with all of the different objects and being able to tell the difference between a fish and the tree or brush pile it is positioned over.
Remember that what you see and how it appears on your graph is effected greatly by the speed you are traveling over the bottom and the other objects under your boat. The faster you move the more the fish will be “arched” and the trees will look like trees, in short the more it will look like the simulator mode. Also, remember that all objects will appear to start deep move shallow and back to deep as you go over them, in other words all objects will be arched as you move over them. The more familiar you become with the images on your graph the more readily apparent what each object is will be. The following list will help you to get a better idea of what each item you are looking at is:
• Groups of continuous horizontal lines with little or no vertical movement – Trees and individual limbs in those trees.
• Single continuous horizontal lines with some vertical movement – inactive fish
• Single or multiple lines moving toward the surface in a fast uninterrupted manner – air bubbles
• Single or multiple lines moving toward the surface in a varied manner – active fish feed or chasing bait toward the surface
• Single or multiple lines moving both toward the surface and bottom in a random and varied manner – a school of very aggressive fish!
• Single or multiple lines moving toward the bottom – fish moving deeper, usually caused by the fish being spooked by your boat or lure. Note these fish can still be caught! Work them hard and you can catch them.
• Oddly shaped light grey “blobs” with dark outline – schools of shad, the tighter and rounder the ball the better chance there are fish in the area.
• Oddly shaped light grey “blobs” on the bottom – could be shad or could be brush piles, cedar trees in particular.
• Additional lines lifting off and returning to the bottom – a fish holding tight to the bottom or the cover on the bottom
• A line or lines with shadows under them rising from the bottom – This is usually found around docks – dock cables.
In addition I suggest visiting www.lowrance.com and going through their sonar tutorial, it has animated graphics that will help you better understand how sonar works and how the images on your graph are processed to represent what is under your boat.
In Conclusion
Nothing is a substitute for time spent on the water studying and working with your graph, the knowledge you gain through experience is much keener than any other. In order to be truly proficient with your electronics you need to do your home work both on and off the water. With a little work you can gain the knowledge to give you an edge over your competition. In the next installment we will look at some specific equipment, lures and rigs that are very effective for deep fishing.
Eric Prey is sponsored by: Ranger Boats, Bill’s Marine, Jewel Bait Co. and Anglers’ Tackle Box as well as the owner of Focused Fishing guide service. Eric’s website is www.focusedfishing.com
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